Discover the best things to do in the Columbia Valley this winter from skiing at Panorama Mountain Resort, to hiking and hot springs in Radium Hot Springs, and ice skating and cross country skiing in Invermere.
It’s a beautiful day to drive to the Columbia Valley. Fresh snow blankets the landscape and sparkles in the sunlight. With new sights around every corner and pretty pit stops, we always enjoy the journey through Banff and Kootenay National Park. Did you know it’s only 3 hours to Radium Hot Springs from Calgary, or 3.5 hours to Panorama Mountain Resort?
At Marble Canyon, we hop out of the car to stretch our legs. The 700-metre loop is short but sweet, offering stunning mountain views from bridges that criss-cross the canyon. Down in the depths, turquoise Tokkumm Creek flows past icicles and snowcapped stones. Along the path, interpretive panels reveal how the canyon formed over millennia. (Note: Microspikes recommended in winter as the trail gets packed down and icy.) On Friday afternoon, there’s hardly anyone on the trail, so we take our time taking photos.
See our story Marble Canyon, Kootenay National Park for more info!
Continuing on through Kootenay National Park, we pass Numa Falls and the Kootenay Valley Viewpoint, and enter the canyon “gates” to Radium Hot Springs. Sinclair Canyon’s tall rock walls rise up on either side making a grand entranceway to “The Warm Side of the Rockies.” We slow down and watch for bighorn sheep that like to hang around here.
Partnership Disclosures: Thank you to Columbia Valley Tourism and Panorama Mountain Resort for sponsoring this trip! All words and opinions are my own (as usual).
An Afternoon in Radium Hot Springs
If you haven’t visited the Radium / Invermere area in winter, we highly recommend stopping at the Radium Hot Springs Visitor Centre. Helpful staff can tell you the best trails to try right now, where to stay, and where to eat; and they also have a gift shop and neat exhibits. Check out the 3D map for a bird’s eye view of the Columbia Valley, Indigenous cultural exhibits, and wildlife displays. You can buy a Parks Canada parks pass here, and use the free wifi too.
Ian at the Radium Hot Springs Visitor Centre recommends Valley View Lookout for the views and wildlife spotting – “there were 10 [bighorn sheep] here earlier” – and shares some great eateries. “The Snack Bar has amazing poutine,” and Wildside Pizzeria has the best pizza. Both are takeout only, but you can enjoy your poutine or pizza with a pint at neighboring Radium Brewing (they let you bring your own food).
For sweet treats for the kids, Ian suggests Screamers Ice Cream Cafe and the Old Tyme Candy Shoppe. Screamers is a retro ice cream shop complete with shiny booths and a jukebox – and all your favorite flavors of ice cream (you can’t miss the colorful murals outside!). Old Tyme Candy Shoppe boasts an impressive assortment of unique and hard to find treats including cinnamon bun OREOs, Jim and Pam (from The Office) Pez dispensers, and Hammond’s chicken & waffles chocolate bars.
Full of sugar, we walk over to Bighorns, a huge ram horns sculpture completed in 2021; then head up to Valley View Lookout (1 km hike from the Visitor Centre, or drive to the winter gate on Redstreak Road) for a short walk.
More trails nearby:
- Old Coach Trail (9 km) for views of the Columbia Wetlands.
- Juniper/Sinclair (3 km) goes along the creek to Sinclair Falls then takes you up the hill to Sinclair Canyon and Radium Hot Springs. Traction devices required!
Of course, the mineral hot springs at Radium Hot Springs (or Fairmont Hot Springs Resort – 26 minutes south) are a MUST-do when you’re in the area, but this trip, we soaked in the slopeside hot pools at Panorama Mountain Resort.
DYK Fairmont Hot Springs Resort is home to the largest mineral hot springs pools in Canada? Read about our Winter Ski & Stay at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort and start planning your trip now!
Dinner finds us at Conrad Kain’s Kitchen + Grill, a beautiful modern space honoring climber Conrad Kain, who made over 60 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies and Purcells, and lived near Radium Hot Springs with his wife. We enjoy salads and pasta from the Conrad Kain and Don Agave Cantina menus (2 menus at 1 place!) with mountain views as the sun goes down.
Panorama Mountain Resort: Ski, Dine, and Soak
Panorama Mountain Resort is a true alpine village, where you can park your car for the weekend and walk everywhere. Whether you’re looking for a cute cafe, pub, brunch place, fine dining, outdoor gear store, ski rentals, or hot pools, they’re all slopeside. There’s even dining on the mountain!
After navigating the winding road to the ski hill in the dark, Billie at Central Check In tells us it’s “so beautiful” during the day. “The first time I drove it with a friend from Australia, I had to keep pulling over so she could take photos!” When we look outside in the morning, we see what she’s talking about. The Purcell mountains are incredibly picturesque (though I’ve yet to meet a mountain I didn’t like)!
From our newly-renovated room at The Approach, a ski-in/ski-out hotel by the Mile 1 chair lift, it’s a hop, skip, and a jump to Alto Kitchen + Bar for brunch (actually, it’s just downstairs!). Alto’s delicious brunch features waffles, French toast, an omelet station, smoked salmon and cream cheese for your bagel, plus bacon, sausages, scrambled eggs, hashbrowns, and fruit salad. A far cry from typical greasy ski hill food!
Clarissa Amaro, Media & Customer Relationship Manager for Panorama Mountain Resort, meets us and gives us some tips on where to ski first – and where to eat. “The hot chocolate at the Summit is the best. They steam chocolate milk, then add more chocolate!” And of course, we have to stop at the Elkhorn Cabin “for Swiss raclette [melted cheese and potato/bread/veggie dish] and lemon blueberry cake”. She laughs as she adds “It might sound strange, but the women’s washroom at Elkhorn has the best view.” (It’s true!) Note: Reservations are required for indoor dining at Elkhorn Cabin.
Sufficiently stuffed and ready to ski, we waddle over to the rental shop and pick up our performance ski package. Saturday mornings are busy, but the staff got us kitted up quickly, so we didn’t have to wait long to hit the slopes.
We take Clarissa’s advice and do a warm-up run off the Discovery Quad, then head up the Mile 1 Express, Champagne Express, and Summit Quad to reach the Summit Hut, at 2,370 m (7,775 ft). This is the place for a bratwurst, Bailey’s coffee, Ray’s famous chili, and nachos. While it’s toasty warm inside, a crowd has gathered around accordion players on the deck, and a few onlookers start dancing and clapping.
You can expect lots of fun events and activities for all ages throughout the season at Panorama Mountain Resort. See the Daily Events schedule for fun activities from tie dying, trivia night, and movie night; to snowshoe tours, scavenger hunts, and fat bike tours! They will have fireworks on Family Day long weekend too!
From the summit, we can ski Taynton Bowl (750 acres of avalanche-controlled advanced terrain) on the backside, or ski the frontside. We opt for the easy way down and take Getmedown to Picture Perfect and Roller Coaster. Now that the morning mist has lifted, Mount Nelson dominates the skyline. We take in the views and soak up the sunshine all the way down, then head back up the lifts for more. In the afternoon, we ski the Sun Bowl where the snow is softer (Roller Coaster and Skyline are good in the morning, but tend to get icy once the corduroy is scraped away).
“With long runs and short lines, Panorama Mountain Resort is snow much fun!”
With long runs and short lines, Panorama Mountain Resort is snow much fun! Panorama has a nice mix of terrain over 3,000 acres (15% Beginner/Green Circle, 35% Intermediate/Blue Square, 20% Advanced/Black Diamond, 30% Expert/Double Black Diamond + Horseshoe Terrain Park), so there’s something for everyone. With 10 lifts and 120 runs, it isn’t crowded either! In fact, Panorama was ranked #1 in the world for “most space per skier!” (Source) Panorama is also Top 10 in North America for vertical drop with 1,300 vertical metres (4,265 vertical feet).
After a super fun ski day, we go for a soak in the Panorama Springs Pools, the largest slopeside hot pools in Canada; then head down to The Cliffhanger at Greywolf Golf Course for dinner. The restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, gorgeous views, and a fantastic menu (the service is excellent too). The perfect ending to a perfect day.
If you’d like to stay at the resort for dinner, Alto Kitchen & Bar is the place for Italian food (including wicked pizza) and T-Bar & Grill is a happening apres-ski spot with great burgers and beer.
TL;DR: What we loved about Panorama Mountain Resort
The best things about skiing and staying at Panorama Mountain Resort are: Gorgeous views, ski-in/ski-out lodging, slopeside hot pools, and great dining options on the ski hill and at the Village. RFID cards make it super quick to board the chair lifts, and short lift lines + long ski runs meant more time skiing (and eating LOL) and less time waiting.
More Panorama Mountain Resort Experiences
FREE
- Panorama Springs Pools & sauna: free access to hotel guests.
- Ice skate at the rink just past the Candy Cabin
- Alpine and XC Ski Tours with Mountain Friends: Take a tour of the ski hill (find secret powder stashes!) or nordic ski trails with Mountain Friends. Suitable for intermediate and advanced skiers.
FEE
- Elkhorn Cabin Alpine Fondue Experience: For an exclusive apre-ski experience, you + 12 friends can take the Monster X Snowcat to the Elkhorn Cabin for fondue, raclette, charcoal grilled steak and mushrooms, salad, and chocolate fondue.
- Heli Skiing: Canada’s highest heli operation!
- Monster X Cat Skiing: Ski or ride Monster terrain (9 double black runs) Thursdays ‘til Sundays.
- Mountain Outfitters: Ski and snowboard rentals, waxing/tuneups, and repairs
- Pure Massage & Spa: By appointment only
- Ski & Ride School: Learn to ski/snowboard from the best!
- Snowshoe Tours: Depart from the Adventure Centre in the Lower Village and include rentals. Check the Daily Events schedule for dates/times.
- Tandem Paragliding: Fly and ski… What could be better?
Panoramic Nordic Centre Experiences
Panorama Nordic Centre is located at Greywolf Golf Centre, 1.5 km from the Upper Village. Trail fees are in effect and trails are dog friendly. See the Rules for Dog Accompaniment before you go.
- Cross country skiing: Rentals available. More info below
- Fatbiking: Rentals available
- Snowshoeing: Rentals available
Winter Activities in the Columbia Valley
Here’s where to skate, cross country ski, and sled in the Columbia Valley:
Ice Skating in Invermere & Windermere
Toby Creek Nordic Ski Club maintains skating tracks and cross country ski trails on Lake Windermere and Lake Lillian. See their Facebook page for trail reports. Suggested donation: $5 per person.
- Skate the world’s longest skating trail: The Whiteway on Lake Windermere! Access the 30+ km long skating track from 1) Kinsmen Beach in Invermere or 2) Windermere Beach.
- On a windy day, skate the 3 km Lake Lillian Whiteway (9 minutes west of Invermere). The pretty little lake is sheltered by trees.
Cross Country Skiing in the Columbia Valley
Cross country skiers and skate skiers will be pleased to know that there are some great cross country ski trails in the Columbia Valley:
- Panorama Nordic Centre at Greywolf Golf Course :20 kilometres of trails are groomed for classic and skate skiing. Ski to the Hale Hut for gorgeous views (12 km round trip)! Trail fees are in effect – get your Panorama Nordic Ski Ticket at Greywolf Golf Course Clubhouse or Guest Services Desk in Ski Tip Lodge. $22/day for Adults; $18.50 for Youth (13-17) & Seniors (65-74); $15 for Children (6-12), $5 for Tots (0-5), Super Seniors, (75+) and Dogs. Fees do not include a $5 reloadable Panorama Pass Card.
- Nipika Mountain Resort has a lovely 50 km network of trails in the Cross River Canyon Recreation Site groomed for classic or cross country skiing. They have cute cabins available to rent too! Located half an hour from Radium. Trail fees in effect:$15 Adults, $12 Senior 65+ & Youth 13-17, $10 Child 5-12. Pay at the Day Lodge/Barn.
- Markin-MacPhail Westside Legacy Trail: 25 kilometres of trails from Fairmont to Invermere with 3 parking areas and 7 picnic areas. The Fairmont side is easy and intermediate, while the Invermere side of the trail is challenging. See the map here.
- Whiteway on Lake Windermere: 30+ kilometres of trails groomed for classic and skate skiing. Suggested donation: $5 per person. See the Toby Creek Nordic Ski Club Facebook page for current conditions.
- Whiteway on Lake Lillian: 3 km loop groomed for classic and skate skiing. Suggested donation: $5 per person. See the Toby Creek Nordic Ski Club Facebook page for current conditions.
If you plan on cross country skiing a lot at Nipika Mountain Resort, Panorama Nordic Centre, and The Whiteways (Lake Windermere and Lake Lillian), you can save on trail fees with a Columbia Valley Nordic Pass.
Snowmobile Tours
Craving a new adventure? Toby Creek Adventures will take you on a fun snowmobile tour to ice falls, through the valley on a groomed trail, or into the alpine. They’ve been running tours since 1996 and have options for newbies and experienced sledders alike! Located 1.5 km from Panorama Mountain Resort.
Where to Eat in Invermere
Although The Cliffhanger (voted best restaurant in Invermere!) and ski resort restaurants are really good, there are even more great eateries in town.
Begginnings Restaurant
Begginnings is THE place for breakfast in Invermere. Whether you’re looking for amazing waffles or eggs benedicts, you’ll find your new favorite breakfast dish here. Their chimmichurri potatoes are extra crispy – and pan fried, so celiacs can enjoy them too (they actually have lots of gluten free and vegetarian options). If you’re super hungry, try the massive I Hate Myself Platter “served with a heaping side of regret.”
Kicking Horse Cafe
Did you know Kicking Horse Coffee is from Invermere?! I was today year’s old when I found that out, despite buying their organic coffee for years (I mistakenly assumed they were from Golden, BC)! Thanks to Kylie Steedman from Columbia Valley Tourism for telling me about it!
After breakfast, we went straight to the gorgeous (newly renovated) Kicking Horse Cafe to try their new Latte Flight. One flight = 4 mini lattes (chocolate, caramel, vanilla, and plain)! If you’re a coffee lover but don’t want 4 shots of espresso, you can request some or all of them to be decaf; or opt for a steamer flight. The coffee is roasted onsite, so the cafe smells heavenly, and they serve yummy food too! It’s on the way to/from Panorama Mountain Resort, so you should definitely stop in!
Arrowhead Brewing Company
Arrowhead Brewing Company has been “brewing beer locally in Invermere since 2012.” Grab a pint in the 1950s taproom (kids welcome) or bring a taste of the valley home.
Where to Stay
Panorama Mountain Resort has ski-in/ski-out accommodation in the Village; plus more lodging in the Lower Village, a free 3-minute gondola ride away. Panorama Springs, Riverbend, Upper Village, Toby and Horsethief, Peaks Lodge, Lookout, Summit Lodge, Taynton Lodge, Hearthstone, and Aurora condos have full kitchens.
We stayed in The Approach Hotel, a newly renovated hotel with spacious rooms (Note: The Approach does NOT have fridges or kitchens) conveniently located next to the Mile 1 Express chairlift. Choose from single queen, double queen, king, family style bunks over queens that sleep 6, and loft rooms. We loved being close to everything, from dining to skiing!
Until April 14, 2024, you can book a Bed & Breakfast stay that includes 30% off the regular rate at The Approach and 2 free breakfasts at Alto Kitchen + Bar.
Book your Panorama Mountain Resort Lodging here.
*Hot tip: Lodging in the Lower Village is more affordable than ski-in/ski-out, and is only a 3-minute gondola ride away! The gondola is free and the Lower Village also has an outdoor hot pool.
Getting Here
The Columbia Valley’s friendly communities can’t wait to welcome you!
Radium Hot Springs is located 3 hours from Calgary at the junction of Highway 93S and Hwy 95. Invermere is 15 minutes south of Radium Hot Springs, and Panorama Mountain Resort is 20 minutes west of Invermere on Toby Creek Road.
Going further: Windermere is 10 minutes south of Invermere on Highway 93. Keep going another 17 minutes to reach Fairmont Hot Springs Resort.
Know Before You Go
A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required to stop in the national parks.
Check trail conditions before you go (especially for The Whiteway on Lake Windermere) and have a backup plan. Although we’ve visited the Columbia Valley three times in winter, we haven’t been able to skate The Whiteway because it was too warm and the ice was too thin. Fortunately, Panorama Mountain Resort makes snow, so you can count on finding snow on the slopes. And the hot springs are open all winter!
Marble Canyon and Sinclair Trail get quite icy, so aggressive traction devices like Kahtoola Microspikes or Hillsound Trail Crampons are recommended.
What to Bring
Disclosure: This section includes affiliate links through which I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting our small family business!
Base layers, insulated winter boots, a down jacket and windproof/waterproof shell (or insulated ski jacket/parka), gloves or mittens, and toque are must-haves. See our fall/winter hiking gear guide for product recommendations. You should also carry The Ten Essentials including: water, extra food, extra clothes, a headlamp, a GPS/satellite communicator (or compass) and map of the area, sunscreen (this one is safe for babies), and bear spray. Carry bear spray in a Frontiersman Bear Spray Holster (attaches to your backpack or belt) or Scat Belt.
In snowy/icy conditions, we recommend traction devices such as Kahtoola Microspikes (Available from Amazon, MEC, and Valhalla Pure Outfitters), or Hillsound Trail Crampons (Available at Valhalla Pure Outfitters and Sport Chek) and trekking poles with snow baskets. For snowshoeing, see our Snowshoeing Gear List.
A Garmin inReach Mini 2 satellite communicator is highly recommended for contacting Search & Rescue and emergency contacts in the event of an emergency, or communicating with friends and family when you are out of cell phone range. You can send text messages and your GPS coordinates via satellite (but a monthly plan is required)!
Related Posts
- Snowshoeing/Hiking Marble Canyon, Kootenay National Park
- Why you should visit Fairmont Hot Springs Resort this winter
- Exploring Johnston Canyon, Banff National Park
